In August of 1977, I stood on the bow of a Ferry on its way from Olympia, Washington, to Victoria, British Columbia, and was amazed at the beauty of the Northwest. As a kid born and raised in Southern California, Vancouver Island, with its giant red cedars, Douglas firs, and Sitka spruce trees, along with the jagged coastline and vast body of the North Pacific Ocean, was something I’d never seen or imagined.
It was summer, and I was on vacation with my parents as we entered Victoria Harbor. Nestled and well-protected within the Sailish Sea, where the Haro and Juan de Fuca Straits converge.
The harbor was magnificent! The sun had set, but the summer twilight glow lingered behind the city of Victoria. Reminiscent of a 19th-century impressionistic painting, sail, and fishing boats were neatly moored in front of the stone causeway. The Capitol building was outlined and adorned with little white lights. The majestic Empress Hotel’s sign EMPRESS, a giant welcome to all visitors, glowed off the still water. The view was beautiful and dreamlike. The scene filled my young heart with a sense of romance; I thought, “Someday, I gotta bring a woman here”! Yes, I was only thirteen, but I figured by the time I could afford to visit Vancouver Island without my parents, I’d need a driver’s license, a job, and maybe a credit card. By this time, I’d be an adult, and then I could find a woman to accompany me. This was the thought process of a 13-year-old Paul.
Last week, 47 years later, I brought Victoria to visit and experience Victoria, British Columbia. Unlike my vacation with my prudent parents, we checked into the Fairmont Empress and enjoyed all the amenities of a luxury hotel.
The highlight of our stay? Whale Watching.
Before you die, go whale watching. And I don’t mean on a giant triple-decker tour yacht with 150 other passengers. Do what we did on our visit to Vancouver Island: Reserve a seat on a RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat). It’s just you and up to 11 other passengers. I strongly recommend Springtide Whale Watching. Captain Jasper was fantastic! Not only a skilled helmsman, but Jasper is a true naturalist. His passion for all things whale was evident as he shared his knowledge of the mammals and their world.
I’m not gonna lie; it was cold. Damn cold! But we were well dressed, and the immersion suits protected us from the wind and spray. That’s right; they gave us immersion suits to wear over our clothing. Sure, wearing them is a bit bulky, and you’ll look like Santa, but If you fall overboard in 55-degree water, the immersion suits will save your life.
The conditions were ideal. Flat seas and cloudy skies made the visibility perfect for seeing a whale’s water spout from a distance. We were out less than an hour when we spotted a couple of Humpback Whales. As if someone said, “Que the whales”! The Humpbacks frolicked and played for us.
The time flew by! Along with the Humpbacks, we enjoyed watching a family of Orcas traveling with their newborn calf. In total, we logged 52 miles in a little over 3 hours. The experience made me feel small. It’s humbling—a feeling we all could use occasionally.
If you find yourself on Vancouver Island with an afternoon free, spend a couple hundred dollars and visit the whales. Or, if you’re lucky enough to live in or visit San Diego, Grey, Humpback, Minke, Fin, Blue, and even Orcas, along with dolphins and sea lions, are just off our local coast.
I spoke with Captain Dan Sullivan ( Aventure Whale Watching ) and Captain Michael Merriam with Gone Whale Watching. These Captains have logged thousands of sea hours on the whale search in Southern California and offered a few pointers to help you understand what to expect.
- The advantage of a small craft is your viewing proximity. There’s nothing like being at eye level with a 45-foot mammal. However, riding in small boats, especially in rough seas, can be bumpy and is not recommended for those with bad backs.
- Whales are not professional entertainers and don’t have a scheduled “show time.” They don’t always breach 20 feet into the air, spin, wave, and wink at you on the way down. You’re in their environment, so allow yourself to experience the peace and serenity that defines the Ocean and the world of these divine creatures.
- Seeing a whale is not guaranteed. They are wild animals swimming in a vast ocean. The Captains are talented and experienced, but they are not magicians.
- If you put your iPhone away, you’ll have a better memory of the experience. It sounds counter-intuitive, and taking a few shots with your phone’s camera is fine. But you’ll remember the experience more vividly if you let your eyes and brain record the day.
Lastly, a word about tipping: Tipping fatigue is a real thing. I’m tired of being asked to tip whenever I swipe my credit card. Do I really need to tip the person who put a scope of ice cream onto a cone? However, for the whale-watching captain who sought out and found a whale in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, kept you safe, taught you things you never knew, and then brought you back to land safely, I strongly encourage you to show your appreciation and give your captain a gratuity.
The experience is far better than the over-priced drinks you bought at the hotel lounge, and I guarantee you’ll never forget the sight of a whale just a few feet from your little boat.
Fair Winds and Following Seas!
Paul & Victoria